Oregon wines have rocketed into national and international recognition in a very short time due to a synergistic blend of diverse factors: geography, climate, research, sustainability, grape selection, focused promotion, visionary pioneers, new investors, reliable funding, effective trade associations, friendly legislators, a loyal consumer base—and awesome wines.
Like all states, Oregon made wine early on, in the 1840’s, only to be devastated by Prohibition. Unlike some other states, it took a very long time to rebound (HillCrest was the first winery in 1961), with only 5 wineries and 35 vineyard acres in 1976 (compared with 726 wineries and over 30,000 acres today).
For years the conventional wisdom held that it was too cold for viticulture until some visionaries decided to plant Pinot Noir, which quickly became the industry’s signature grape. The wines were superb, attracting an enthusiastic following, adoring media attention, and even a famous Burgundian producer, Domaine Drouhin, to this New World region in 1988 with Domaine Drouhin Oregon. More recently, major west coast wineries like Jackson Family Wines and Ste Michelle Wine Estates have invested in the Oregon miracle.
Another secret of success was the Oregon Pinot Camp which attracted influential members of the trade and has become the model for other states and regions to mimic. The 1987 International Pinot Noir Celebration also helped spread the love. In addition, years ago the grape and wine industry voted to establish an industry-funded mechanism overseen by the state government (Oregon Wine Board) for marketing, research and education.
Collaboration has also played a major role. In addition to the OWB, Oregon has several statewide associations such as the Oregon Winegrowers Association and Oregon Wine Council, plus some 15 regional ones such as the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. Legislators on both the state and federal levels have generally been actively supportive, encouraging eco-friendly “green” winemaking and reducing federal excise taxes (Senator Ron Wyden). In addition, Oregon State University has a robust viticulture and enology program to support the industry’s development.
Oregon winemakers are acutely aware of “terroir”, reflected by the many AVAs in the state. The Willamette Valley and Southern Oregon and the major ones wholly within the state, with the first having 10 “nested” sub-AVAs and the latter two. In addition, Oregon shares the Columbia Gorge, Columbia Valley, and Snake River AVAs with neighboring Washington and Idaho.
Today Oregon has the third most wine producers (after CA and WA), is fourth in production (after NY), and continues to grow in volume and value. The first major coup on the international stage occurred in 1979 when David Lett’s Eyrie Vineyards 1975 Pinot Noir won high honors in the 1979 French Wine Olympics. Since then, Oregon wines have regularly received top ratings in Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Wine & Spirits, and many other publications. And the surge in Direct-to-Consumer wines sales during Covid showed that Oregon Pinot Noir has an avid following nationwide.
Some Oregon wineries, all WineAmerica members, deserve special mention:
Adelsheim Vineyard in Newburg was established in 1971 as the first winery in the Chehalem Mountains, absorbing the life savings of David and Ginny Adelsheim for what seemed like a huge risk. But it has all worked out, with the certified LIVE sustainable winery being in Wine & Spirits Top 100 listing seven different times. The operation also reflects a philosophy and values covering all aspects of sustainability and social responsibility.
Brooks Wines is celebrating 50 years of growing grapes and 25 years of making wines (starting in 1998) by once again being among Wine & Spirits Magazine’s Top 100 Wineries (based on a tasting of more than 9,000 wines) as well as #28 in World’s Best Wines, which included only two from the U.S. “Community, Excellence, Impact, Joy” define the philosophy of the winery, which is Certified Biodynamic, Certified B Corporation, and otherwise recognized for its environmental and social responsibility. To top it all off, Janie Brooks Heuck is very involved in industry organizations at the regional, state, and national levels, having served as Chair of WineAmerica’s Board of Directors. She is also President of the International Riesling Foundation which promotes Rieslings from around the world. (Brooks makes 23 different Rieslings, and she jokes that they make Pinot Noir to support their Riesling habit.)
Sokol Blosser Winery, created by Susan Sokol and Bill Blosser in 1971 in the Dundee Hills AVA, includes an 89-acre certified organic vineyard and is also a Certified B Corporation. “Dedication, Quality, and Concern for People, Planet and Profit” guide its operations, now run by Alex Sokol Blosser (President and Second Generation Winemaker) and Alison Sokol Blosser (Second Generation Winegrower). Their “Farm and Forage” six-course food and wine tasting experience is rated among USA Today’s Top 10 Winery Restaurant Awards.
Stoller Wine Group includes Stoller Farm Estate, Chehalem Winery, Chemistry, Canned Oregon, and History, as well as a 400-acre vineyard established in 1993, plus three guest houses on the property. The pioneering spirit and commitment to the farm led Stoller to become the world’s first LEED certified winery, sustainably built and environmentally friendly. They have been among USA Today’s 10Best Tasting Rooms for seven years, along with a consistent choice as Most Admired Winery by the Portland Business Journal.
Willamette Valley Vineyards, founded by CEO Jim Bernau in 1983, is the only publicly traded operation, with over 20,000 wine enthusiasts invested. Jim’s wine odyssey started in childhood with vineyard tending, then home winemaking, on to UC Davis, and then Beaune, France, the heart of Pinot Noir country. Named by Wine Enthusiast as “One of America’s Great Pinot Noir Producers”, the winery is LIVE certified and has multiple facilities in different locations where consumers can enjoy wine, food, and a good night’s sleep among the vineyards.
Great Grapes: Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is one of the world’s most coveted, challenging, and controversial grapes and wines, and one which put Oregon on the world’s wine map. An offshoot of Pinot Meunier, the red sibling of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, and born in France’s Burgundy region, Pinot Noir is very particular about terroir, thriving in relatively cool, often fog-laden regions with well-drained limestone soils. Lighter in color than Cabernet Sauvignon and most other red wines, its many cherished aromas and flavors can include cherry, raspberry, mint, truffles, and the pleasant gamey scent in young wines known by French winemakers as “animale”. Pleasant as a sipping wine, Pinot Noir is also a very versatile match for a wide range of foods, including fish.
