Many years ago, I judged at Bill Moffett’s Grand Harvest Awards in Sonoma, a unique competition essentially based on “terroir”, and open to any wines in the country. When we finally got to the Sweepstakes round, it was a contest among the best sparkling, white, rose, red, and dessert wines for overall “Best of Show”.
The judges’ clear favorite: a stunning Rose. As some wondered where in California it came from, the label was unveiled: Mac’s Creek in Nebraska! And the incredibly delightful pink wine was made from Marechal Foch grapes, a French-American variety.
I never tire of telling that story, or of applauding winery owner Max McFarland, who is on the WineAmerica Board representing the Midwest region. But Mac’s Creek Winery and Vineyard is only one of many Nebraska wineries winning multiple awards, including Miletta Vista Winery, plus Whiskey Run Creek Vineyard and Winery, and Soaring Wings Vineyard. The key is knowing what will grow reliably in the challenging climate of searing hot summers, bitter cold winters, and unpredictable weather in between. The cold-hardy Minnesota varieties are a natural choice, along with French-American and Cornell creations.
Like all states, Nebraska had a wine industry before Prohibition, which wiped it out, followed by a 1940 storm which destroyed the rebuilding attempts. The Nebraska Farm Wineries Act of 1986 set the stage for future growth, but even then the first winery didn’t open until 1994. Since then, the growth has accelerated, along with the industry’s reputation for quality.
Great Grapes: Brianna
Developed by Elmer Swenson, this cold hardy green-gold grape turns to glorious gold when fully ripened in late August/early September, and can double as a table grape. But it’s delightful as a versatile table wine ranging from dry to sweet, with the latter versions typically showing a pronounced pineapple nose and flavor.
