The Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, also known as the Keystone State given its crucial role in holding everyone together during the American Revolution, has been a major wine state for a very long time. Around 1740, a vinifera-labrusca cross was discovered near Philadelphia, and was named Alexander after the gardener who found it. In 1786, Frenchman Pierre Legaux founded the Pennsylvania Wine Company just outside of the City of Brotherly Love, making it the first commercial winery in the U.S.
Wedged between western New York and eastern Ohio, which have contiguous grape growing regions included in the tri-state Lake Erie AVA, the north shore of Pennsylvania has weather patterns affected by that southernmost Great Lake. Today there are four other AVA’s—Central Delaware Valley, Cumberland Valley, Lancaster Valley, and Lehigh Valley—along with 10 wine trails attracting tourists. In addition, the nearly 400 wineries are scattered throughout the state so that regardless of where you are, you’re never more than an hour from a winery.
Producing some two million gallons annually, Pennsylvania is the fifth largest wine state, and also includes 15,000 retail and 1,250 wholesale licenses, boosting jobs and wages spurred by the wine industry. The Pennsylvania Wineries Association supports the industry through legislation and promotion, and Penn State University includes a viticulture and enology program to increase productivity and quality.
A few notable wine producers:
Buckingham Valley Vineyards, in the charming area of New Hope in eastern Pennsylvania, was founded in 1966 as one of the state’s pioneering wineries, and remains refreshingly casual to this day. Owned by the Forest Family (Kathy and Jerry, sons Kevin and Chris), the operation has grown from five to 40 acres, with annual production of 35,000 gallons of French hybrid, vinifera, and native American varieties. The family’s laid back attitude is obvious from a statement on its website: “no quotas, no budget, almost no staff (family and friends), no guided tours, no yoga in the vineyard, no BS.” Gotta love it.
Mazza Vineyards, founded 51 years ago, is a leader in the state’s industry in many ways—total production (over 500,000 gallons), multiple wineries (two in PA, one in NY), product diversity (wine, spirits, and beer), and industry leadership (state and national levels). After Joseph Mazza left Italy for the U.S. in the 1950’s, his sons Bob and Frank started Mazza Vineyards in Northeast, PA, later acquiring the historic South Shore Wine Cellars, and crossing into New York in 2006 to create Mazza Chautauqua Cellars plus Five & 20 Spirits, the first-ever facility producing wine, beer, and spirits under one roof. Frank and Bob both led the Pennsylvania Wineries Association, and Mazza Vineyards has always been a WineAmerica member, with third-generation Mario Mazza now on our Board. Mario studied enology at the University of Adelaide in Australia, and is now General Manager of Vice President, while Vanessa Mazza serves as Creative Director. It’s a true family conglomerate, always innovating and fully committed to sustainability in its operations.
Nissley Vineyards Winery & Estate was founded by Dick and Anna Nissley in the Lancaster Valley in the mid 1970’s, with the second and third generations carrying on the legacy. Twin daughters Judith and Joyce split up the marketing and operations functions, while grandson Jonas is involved in production. Dick Nissley also founded the Pennsylvania Wineries Association and served as its first president.
Great Grapes: Chancellor
This French-American varietal offers some surprises, with its deep color suggesting a blockbuster red that instead is often unexpectedly light and mellow. The aromas of soft red cherries, blackberries and cinnamon leading into that taste profile make it a good match for lamb and venison. Chancellor often scores well in major wine competitions where the California judges are surprised and delighted.